travel-journal

双城记：古都与宝藏之旅

Japan & Taiwan Adventure: Dec 5-19, 2025

Trip Overview

A 15-day cultural journey through Japan's ancient temples and Taiwan's treasures with my partner. From Tokyo's energy to Kyoto's zen gardens, Nara's bowing deer, Osaka's food scene, and Taiwan's night markets and museums—this was a trip of ancient capitals and timeless treasures.

Destinations: Tokyo → Kyoto → Nara → Osaka (Japan) → Taipei → Chiayi → Tainan (Taiwan) Duration: December 5-19, 2025 (15 days) Travel Style: Cultural exploration, temple hopping, museum visits, food hunting Companions: Traveling with my partner Theme: 一场穿梭于古寺与博物的探寻 (A journey through ancient temples and museums)

Days 1-2: December 5-6 - Arriving in Tokyo

We landed at Tokyo (HND/NRT) after the long flight from SFO. The first couple of days were about adjusting to the jet lag and getting our bearings. We stayed near Tokyo Station—convenient for the shinkansen we'd be taking soon.

Optional walks around the Imperial Palace outer gardens and Marunouchi district helped us shake off the travel fatigue. Tokyo's December air was crisp and refreshing.

Day 3: December 7 - Shinkansen to Kyoto

The day we'd been waiting for—our first shinkansen ride!

Pro tip from the plan: Book an E seat (right side) and about 40-45 minutes after departure, you get a stunning view of Mount Fuji if the weather cooperates. We were lucky—the mountain appeared through the clouds, snow-capped and majestic.

Two and a half hours later, we arrived in Kyoto, Japan's cultural heart. After checking in, we headed straight to the Higashiyama area:

Kiyomizu-dera (清水寺) - The famous wooden stage with panoramic views
Wandered through Ninenzaka & Sannenzaka - Traditional stone-paved lanes
Evening in Gion or Pontocho for dinner

Day 4: December 8 - Kyoto: Golden Pavilion, Rock Garden & Bamboo

A full day exploring Kyoto's northern and western highlights:

Morning: Northern Kyoto

Kinkaku-ji (金閣寺) - The Golden Pavilion's reflection on the mirror pond is iconic
Ryoan-ji (龍安寺) - Meditated before the famous rock garden, trying to see all 15 stones

Afternoon: Arashiyama

Bamboo Grove (竹林小径) - Walking through towering bamboo stalks
Tenryu-ji Temple (天龍寺) - UNESCO World Heritage site with beautiful gardens
Togetsukyo Bridge (渡月橋) - Strolled along the riverbank

Evening: Nanzen-ji

Nanzen-ji (南禅寺) - The massive Sanmon gate and the red brick aqueduct were stunning in the autumn light

Day 5: December 9 - Nara: Sacred Deer & Great Buddha

Day trip from Kyoto via Kintetsu Railway to Nara, the ancient capital.

Morning: National Treasures

Kofuku-ji (興福寺) - The iconic five-story pagoda and national treasure Buddha statues
Nara National Museum (奈良国立博物館) - Deep dive into Buddhist art

Noon: The Great Buddha

Todai-ji (東大寺) - Home to the 15-meter bronze Daibutsu, one of the largest wooden buildings in the world

Afternoon: Shrine & Old Town

Kasuga Taisha (春日大社) - Walked through thousands of stone lanterns
Naramachi (奈良町) - Traditional merchant district, great for lunch and souvenirs

The Famous Bowing Deer

The deer here are sacred messengers of the gods, and they've learned to bow for treats. You bow, they bow back, then they expect a shika senbei (deer cracker). It's adorable until you run out of crackers and they start nudging you aggressively. Hilarious and slightly terrifying.

Day 6: December 10 - Nara Temples & Osaka Night

Morning: World's Oldest Wooden Buildings

Horyu-ji (法隆寺) - The world's oldest wooden structures, dating back to the 7th century. We spent over 2 hours here, mesmerized by the five-story pagoda.

Afternoon: Monk Jianzhen's Legacy

Toshodai-ji (唐招提寺) - Founded by the Chinese monk Jianzhen (Ganjin), who crossed the sea six times to bring Buddhism to Japan
Optional: Yakushi-ji (薬師寺)

Evening: Hello Osaka!

Took the train from Nara to Osaka and checked into our hotel. First stop: Dotonbori (道頓堀)!

The neon lights reflecting on the canal, the Glico running man sign, and the smell of takoyaki in the air—Osaka's energy hit us immediately. We stuffed ourselves with:

Takoyaki (章魚燒) - Crispy octopus balls
Local beer and street food

Day 7: December 11 - Osaka: Castle & Food

Morning Options (we chose the castle!)

Osaka Castle (大阪城) - Toyotomi Hideyoshi's legacy, white walls and gold accents against the December sky

Afternoon & Evening

Shopping and packing—preparing for the Taiwan leg
Optional: Umeda bookstores (Maruzen & Junkudo)
Dinner back at Dotonbori or exploring Shinsekai (新世界) for kushikatsu

One memorable dinner was at a local izakaya where we demolished plates of fresh oysters—plump, briny, and perfect with sake.

Day 8: December 12 - Crossing the Sea: Osaka → Taipei

Morning

Last Japanese breakfast in Osaka, savoring every bite.

Afternoon

✈️ KIX → TPE - Flight from Kansai International Airport to Taipei

Evening

Arrived in Taipei! The energy shift was immediate—from Japan's understated elegance to Taiwan's vibrant chaos.

First night mission: Raohe Street Night Market (饒河夜市)—and what an introduction to Taiwan it was!

First Night: Raohe in the Rain

It was pouring rain when we arrived at Raohe, but that didn't stop anyone. The market was packed despite the weather—umbrellas bumping into each other, steam rising from food stalls, the smell of pepper buns and grilled meats mixing with the rain.

The food was incredible and ridiculously cheap. We completely lost control. One stall led to another, and before we knew it, we had eaten:

Pepper buns (胡椒餅) fresh from the clay oven
Stinky tofu (finally brave enough to try it!)
Oyster omelette
Grilled squid on a stick
Bubble tea (multiple cups)
Fried chicken cutlet
Some mystery meat skewer that was amazing
And probably five more things we forgot

We stumbled back to the hotel stuffed beyond belief, rain-soaked but completely happy. This set the tone for our entire Taiwan food adventure.

Our Night Market Marathon (5 markets!)

Over our week in Taiwan, we hit five different night markets:

Raohe Street Night Market (饒河夜市) - OUR FAVORITE! Best variety, tastiest food, pepper buns are legendary. Even in heavy rain, totally worth it.
Shilin Night Market (士林夜市) - The biggest and most famous, underground food court is massive
Ningxia Night Market (寧夏夜市) - Local favorite, less touristy, incredible food density
Linjiang Street Night Market (臨江街夜市/通化夜市) - Near Taipei 101, great for late-night bites
Nanjichang Night Market (南機場夜市) - Hidden gem, where locals actually eat, amazing dan bing

Verdict: Raohe wins for variety and taste. Nanjichang wins for authenticity. Skip the Shilin crowds if you're short on time.

Day 9: December 13 - Classic Taipei Day

Morning

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall (中正紀念堂) - Watched the changing of the guard ceremony

Afternoon

Longshan Temple (龍山寺) - Taipei's most famous temple, incense smoke and prayers
Bopiliao Historical Block (剝皮寮) - Beautifully preserved old street

Night

Raohe Street Night Market (饒河夜市) - The famous pepper buns (胡椒餅) are a must!
Bookstore hopping: Pon Ding (朋丁) - A beautiful independent bookstore

Day 10: December 14 - HSR South: Chiayi & NPM Southern Branch

The Mission

🚄 High Speed Rail from Taipei to Chiayi (嘉義)

Core Mission: Visit the National Palace Museum Southern Branch (故宮南院) for the 100th Anniversary Special Exhibition!

The museum's modern architecture is stunning, and the exhibits rival the main branch in Taipei.

Evening

Continued to Tainan (台南), Taiwan's ancient capital. Checked into our hotel and began the ancient capital food journey:

Shrimp rolls (蝦卷)
Oyster omelettes (蚵仔煎)
All the local Tainan specialties

Day 11: December 15 - Tainan & Back to Taipei

Morning: Tainan Historical Sites

Chikan Tower (赤崁樓) - Dutch and Chinese architecture fusion
Anping Fort (安平古堡) - Exploring Taiwan's colonial history
Anping Tree House (安平樹屋) - Banyan trees consuming an old warehouse

Afternoon

🚄 HSR back to Taipei

Evening: Dadaocheng

Dihua Street (迪化街) - Taipei's oldest street! Traditional medicine shops, fabric stores, tea houses, and cute boutiques in vintage buildings
Bought tea, dried fruits, and way too many souvenirs
Ningxia Night Market (寧夏夜市) - Local favorite, less touristy, incredible food density

Day 12: December 16 - National Palace Museum Day

All-Day Mission: 故宮博物院

The National Palace Museum (國立故宮博物院) deserves a full day. Home to one of the world's largest collections of Chinese art.

Viewing Strategy:

Head straight to the "100 Years of NPM" special exhibition
Permanent highlights: Mao Gong Ding (毛公鼎), Jadeite Cabbage (翠玉白菜), Meat-Shaped Stone (肉形石)
Rotating calligraphy and painting exhibitions

Lunch: Silks Palace (故宮晶華) inside the museum or the cafeteria

Must-Do: Buy the 100th anniversary commemorative catalog at the gift shop!

Day 13: December 17 - Xinbeitou Attempt

The Plan

Head to Xinbeitou (新北投) for a relaxing hot spring soak.

The Reality

We arrived at the hot springs only to find it was completely full—no available slots! December is peak season and we should have booked ahead.

So we pivoted: walked around the Xinbeitou area, checked out the historic hot spring district, saw the steam rising from the thermal valley, and then headed back to Taipei. Not the relaxing soak we planned, but still a nice half-day excursion.

Lesson learned: Book hot springs in advance during peak season!

Day 14: December 18 - Cultural Pack-Up Day

Morning: Creative Parks

Huashan 1914 (華山1914) - Creative arts district in a former winery

Afternoon: Bookstore Pilgrimage

Pon Ding (朋丁) - Art and independent publications
Eslite (誠品) - Taiwan's iconic 24-hour bookstore, a cultural landmark

Evening: Farewell Feast

Final Taiwan dinner! We hit our remaining food bucket list:

Din Tai Fung (鼎泰豐) - Xiaolongbao perfection
Addiction Aquatic Development (上引水產) - Standing sushi bar

Back to hotel to pack, bittersweet feelings.

Day 15: December 19 - Heading Home

Morning

One last traditional Taiwanese breakfast:

Fan Tuan (飯糰) - Rice roll with you tiao, pork floss, pickled vegetables
Dan Bing (蛋餅) - Egg crepe
Dou Jiang (豆漿) - Fresh soy milk

To the Airport

🚇 Taoyuan Airport MRT → TPE

Return Flight

✈️ TPE → SFO

旅程结束，记忆永存。 The journey ends, but the memories last forever.

Expenses Summary

Photo Gallery

Japan

Taiwan

Trip Highlights

Mount Fuji from the shinkansen - E seat magic!
Bowing deer in Nara - Unforgettable and hilarious
Horyu-ji Temple - 1,400 years of wooden architecture
Dotonbori at night - Neon lights and takoyaki
National Palace Museum - Jadeite Cabbage in person
NPM Southern Branch - 100th anniversary exhibition
Tainan food tour - Ancient capital flavors
Dihua Street shopping - Tea and souvenirs in vintage buildings
Raohe Night Market in the rain - Our favorite! Ate until we couldn't walk
Traditional Taiwanese breakfast - Fan tuan and dan bing

Travel Tips from Experience

Japan:

Book shinkansen E seat for Mt. Fuji views
Kintetsu Railway is best for Kyoto↔Nara
Allow 2+ hours for Horyu-ji
Dotonbori is best at night

Taiwan:

HSR is the way to go for Taipei↔South
NPM needs a full day
Dihua Street + Ningxia Night Market = perfect combo
Traditional breakfast shops close early, go before 10am
Book Beitou hot springs in advance during peak season (we learned the hard way!)
Raohe > Shilin for night markets—better food variety, tastier, and worth it even in rain
Nanjichang is where locals actually eat—skip the tourist crowds

旅行的意义不在于你去了哪里，而在于你带回了什么。 The meaning of travel lies not in where you went, but in what you brought back.

—From Tokyo's precision to Taiwan's chaos, from ancient temples to night market chaos, this was the perfect 15-day East Asia adventure. Two countries, countless temples, infinite food, and unforgettable memories with my partner. Already planning the next one.

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Last updated 51 minutes ago

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